Below I have included a couple of examples that illustrate what many of my previous posts have talked about. Many of these techniques described have been used in these two restorations
In the first example which I have called “motorbike mess” a large chunk of the image is missing and it has very large tears and creases and cracks. Most of the superficial cracks could be patched away sampling from suitable nearby areas or textures that matched the missing details. The largest crack through the middle needed a little more attention. This is where the sliding block puzzle technique, of cutting pieces using the correct selection technique and pasting and repositioning, slowly piecing together the missing details. The clone tool can come in handy here too.
I had to recreate the engine mountings and not knowing the exact model of the bike and having no photo records, I had to use some imagination. Internet references were found and I could get some idea. The huge chunk missing in the top corner and windows down the top right were added using vanishing point, followed by patch and clone. It took around 5 hours mind you and turned into very much a personal challenge.
Before I started the creases and tears and missing pieces seemed like a daunting task.
After. Like any restoration I can go on forever, but I had to stop somewhere.
The second restoration consisted of 3 separate photos to make into one. Almost half the photo was missing but fortunately the customer had other wedding photos on that day, which supplied a reference for the coat and the hair and missing chin and background. With the correct selection technique and a fair bit of dodging and burning on separate layers the image was back together and a very good repair was achieved.
Before, showing the 3 photos used to complete the photo repair.
One the restoration was complete at a later date I decided to hand colour the image.
This is just a summary of the photo repair techniques involved but if you go back through the posts you will find many of them described in more detail.
With the photographic features in mind and the photo repair angle in our heads is it really worth it?
There are a few features that have been added that might aid us photographers aiming to do photo repairs. Notably the first is the graphic acceleration of some operations. However reading deeper into the blurb and some reputable reviews, the graphics acceleration is not actually going to help us photographers very much. The rotation and zoom controls are accelerated by your graphics card but not the filters. The only way these will speed up is with a faster processor and even then I am not sure this helps that much. As us photo repair men use the filters quite a lot for selections and making etc then this is of little use.
Another feature that has been added is something called content aware scaling. This enables an image to be stretched or shrunk without altering the content of the image and maintain the content in proportion by removing data that is not needed. I have included an example of a BMW car that I squashed. Notice the wheels are still round and most of the cars features still look normal. This feature can be used for making wider format images quite successfully especially if you want to stretch a landscape. However, this is not worth the upgrade particularly when you can find this tool, “Resizor” elsewhere on the net and free. You may have to resourceful in your search but it is there. This feature could also be used to fit an old photo to a more conventionally proportioned modern day paper size.
So what else if there to offer? The last feature that I noted was colour range selection by local clusters. It is a fancy way to select colours with similar colour range within a specific area. The zone of the area can be controlled. Once again this is something you can quite happily do with a circular faded mask and then select your colour range within that area.
Over all then is worth the upgrade? In short no, not if you are just performing photo repair like me. Don’t waste your money and stick with CS2 orCS3
You may find that the photos that you want to repair are in more than one piece. When scanning an old photo with the intention of repairing it you may want to check what your scanner is up to again. See Saving you images correctly. When you scan two bits of a photo you may find that the two halves end up looking completely different. The tones and exposure and even colour may look great on one half and totally different on the other, what is going on?
When your scanner when set to automatic just like a digital camera set to “auto”, it will exposure and correct the image where and how it sees fit. Images with more dark tones in them, may be compensated for and end up lighter and vice versa for light images ending up darker. Colours may even change too.
It is best to set your scanner to manual and switch off all the automatic settings and keep the scanning resolution the same. Turn off the auto tone, brightness, contrast, colour sections and just scan in colour, as basic as you can get. This way both scans should end up the same in their tones and exposures and size. You can then be sure when you are trying to match up the two halves that they will meet easily and make the photo repair simpler too. In fact you can apply this technique when scanning large prints bigger than your scanner. Make sure you scan with around 25% overlap on each scan then this will give plenty to match up when getting your restorer to stitch them together again.
Photo repairs and fixing your old photos.